Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ category

Gabrielle Two Ways

October 17, 2014

The thing I’ve always appreciated about sewing patterns is that they more often than not give several versions of the same garment; with long and short sleeves or none at all.

I like to follow this idea in my own knitting patterns so that I give my own customers the most value that I can. If I love the way a style looks on me, you can bet I’ll want to make it again in another color and/or configuration, which defrays the cost of the pattern.

Gabrielle is one such pattern that I think works very well.

Below, Gabrielle as a jacket and as a vest.

gaby1n2

Both ways Gabrielle is well fitting, flattering and office appropriate. Not only that, she knits up so fast on size 10US needles and Cascade Pacific Chunky.

Enjoy your knitting!

 

Vogue Knitting Fall 2014 #24 Duster Coat-Part Deaux

September 23, 2014

Thanks all for the nice responses to the post about my #24 Duster Coat in the current issue of VK.

I have photos of the coat when in progress that I’ve posted below.

Boho1Here is the original sketch submitted to VK along with the chart I made for the tribal patterning and the first sleeve.

The theme was 70′s bohemian and that brought to mind the movie Dr Zhivago and the fantastic coats and costumes worn therein. Perfect inspiration for this project!

boho2

Here are the completed fronts.  Getting the neckline the way I wanted it so that the collar would fit in correctly was a challenge. Ripped a couple of times before I figured it out.

boho3

Here is the completed back. My decrease lines can be seen easily. It looks like a lot of knitting, and it was, but the bulky yarn and size 10US needles helped it fly along.

boho4boho5The finished coat.

The large button is actually decorative. I bought a set of three large hooks and eyes to close the front securely.

I love this coat with it’s fit-and-flare shape ; so flattering to so many body types.  I’ll be making up a slightly different White Lies Designs version for Stitches West in February. Of course I’ll post photos here when it’s ready.

Vogue Knitting Fall 2014 #24 Duster Coat

September 18, 2014

Check out the coat I designed for the Fall issue of Vogue Knitting!

Boho Coat-Joan McGowan-Michael

Boho Coat-Joan McGowan-Michael

This issue is on newsstands now or can be ordered through vogueknitting.com .

http://checkoutthelatest.com/VogueKnitting&watch=Vy8UTWaL9_k

 

Seams or Circles?

July 4, 2014

This is the conundrum amongst knitters: Should garments be knitted in pieces and then seamed or knit in the round and all seaming eliminated?

 Knitters seem to be passionate about their preferences when asked.

 There are those who will simply not finish a garment if it means sewing anything together. They love the knitting but cannot abide finishing, so into the UFO pile it goes. These are your die-hard circular knitters who hunt out top-down, in-the-round patterns.

 Then there are the seamers who may have had a bad experience with their circularly knit project. Perhaps an obvious mistake was made somewhere in the garment which then required ripping out most of the piece to correct it. Or an expensive fiber like silk was used and the garment grew a foot the first time it was worn. Just those two examples could be enough to turn a knitter off of circular construction forever.

 I had an unusual experience with a sweater knit in the round that a friend brought back from Peru. It was a lovely alpaca sweater with Fair isle motifs all around. I excitedly put it on and went out for the day. The sweater twisted around my body in a very uncomfortable way and felt tighter and grew longer as the day wore on. I was very disappointed and got it off me the minute I could. I kept the sweater for years in the vain hope that it could somehow be fixed, but never wore it again.

 I asked some knitting friends which form of construction they preferred and why. Here are some of the answers from the circular contingent:

 -Some knitters knit faster than they purl or hate purling and would prefer to knit only. Knitting on the right side of the fabric only means they will always be working a right-side round and need never purl.

 -Certain techniques such as cables, traveling stitches or certain laces are generally regarded as easier to work with the right side facing the knitter. The same is true with techniques like Fair-Isle, as more than one strand of yarn is in play per round and can become troublesome when working back and forth.

 Then there is Team Seam and the reasons they prefer sewing:

 -Some of the more luxurious fibers are also the most inelastic and saggy. Alpaca, silk, cotton, bamboo; are all notorious for their sagging and bagging. Seams stabilize these fibers and keep them in check when they try to go rogue.

 -Some yarns can be overtwisted when being spun which leads the resulting fabric to bias (as in my example of my sweater twisting around my body). This isn’t a huge problem when knitted flat, but can be disasterous knit circularly.

 -Larger garments, for men or plus-sizes, are heavier due to the sheer quantity of yarn they contain and beg for stabilization from seams. Skirts also benefit from the extra sturdiness seams provide

 Stabilization is a great reason to learn to love seams, but what are some others?

-Certain techniques simply cannot be done in the round, intarsia and entrelac being examples.

-Achieving a very tailored look is difficult in the round as flat knitting allows for more precise construction and seams create a kind of visual exoskeleton which is more flattering to those of us who are a bit fluffier.

 This is not to say that both techniques can’t co-exist beneficially in the same garment.

 Below are two examples.

 My Zelda pullover is started circularly at the hem and all the way to the underarms the Honeybee stitch panels and shaping are worked with the right side facing the knitter. This is not only very fast, it allows the knitter to see the lace panels form and avoid the confusion that may result from working it from the back side.WLD Zelda 2012

Then the underarms are bound off and the remainders of the front and back are knitted flat. This gives us shoulder seams to sew and sleeves to set in. The shoulder seams are great stabilizers and the set in sleeves are tailored and flattering to most body types.

 The Shana Skirt below, employs seams for the body, as it’s wider expanses of stockinette would sag woefully under the weight of itself and it’s flouncy bottom without them. However, the flounce is picked up and knitted last, and it’s circular nature is not only lightning fast to work, but it allows the knitter to stop when the desired length is reached.WLD Shana 2012

 

Both circular and flat constructions have their own advantages, charms and problems. Know your options and make thoughtful choices when constructing the garments that you work so hard to complete.

Interested in knitting these styles?     PDF patterns are available!

Zelda  $8.50                       Shana  $8.50

 

Stitchery on your Knitting

March 7, 2014

I love the look of intarsia, wherein pictures and motifs are knit right into the work.

However, though I know many people enjoy it, I personally hate the process. The bobbins, the weaving in of ends, the twisting of yarn to avoid holes. Ugh.

This is why I love duplicate stitch so very much. I can finish my garment, decide where and how many motifs it needs and where they should go, and spend a few relaxing hours stitching them on.

Duplicate stitch

Duplicate stitch

Here are two styles that I really enjoyed working on and employing this technique.

 

Frida is my take on a Mexican peasant blouse, and Gillian a curvy little tee with a front panel of stockinette that just begs to be embellished.Frida-Gillian

Patterns for both styles are downloadable, and kits contain yarn for garments and all colors for embroidery.

Try one of these pretty styles as a new addition to your Spring wardrobe.

 

 

 

Stitches West 2014

February 13, 2014

Looking for a discount card for this big yarn show?

Find it here.

Stitches show dates are Feb. 21 thru 23rd at the Santa Clara convention center.

See us (White Lies Designs) in booth 220 with some pretty new styles!

Hugshrug

Not able to make it to the show, but want this pretty knit shrug pattern?

Rockin’ the Stockings!!

January 21, 2014

Even though I’ve been a professional designer for going on 30 years (yes, really), I can’t help but have an eye-rolling moment every now and then over the looks I see on the runway and the absence of reality and/or common sense behind the look displayed.

Case in point: All of the shorts and minis seen on the runway for this, the winter of 2014, one of the coldest in recent memory.

However, some of the designers who showed this look were thinking realistically when they paired these tiny togs with lovely, long socks, over the knee and up to the thigh.

stockins

They’re preaching to the choir here, because I’ve designed several of these hosiery styles for White Lies Designs, and now knitters can make their own over-the-knee beauties at home.

Stockingsnewsletter

From left to right, Anastasia, Marlaina, Gina and Monica.

All are knitted from the toe up and can be tried on as you knit. I’ve used Cascade Fixation which contains 3% elastic so it hugs the leg and stays up nicely. They’re sexy and they’re also smart.

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